REMEMBERING XINH DWELLEY

Since her death from cancer on Nov. 17, chef Xinh Dwelley has been celebrated for her cuisine, generosity and warmth. But the moment that elicited perhaps the most electric response at a service Tuesday at the Skookum Event Center came when a video tribute showed Xinh look into the camera, flash her trademark smile and then extend her middle finger.

Hundreds of attendees erupted with laughter.

Xinh's playful and saucy side shined through at the service at the Little Creek Casino and Resort in Shelton for the cookbook author, oyster shucking champion and proprietor of Xinh's Clam & Oyster House in downtown Shelton.

Father James Thibodeaux, who leads the congregation at Xinh's church, St. Christopher's Community Church, joked that 75 of the attendees would be allowed to speak about Xinh for 30 minutes each. Instead, six people shared their memories of her.

Zachary Hansen was the first speaker. "Xinh would be so happy to see you," he said. "She'd be so honored."

Hansen said the lessons he learned from Xinh included "what you give is what you receive" and "you go beyond the minimum and do the best possible." "She gave us much more than required," he added.

Ralph Munro, who was Washington's secretary of state from 1980 to 2001, recalled meeting Xinh after hearing "fabulous laughter" coming from a site where oysters were being shucked.

"Xinh made friends, as you can see by the size of this crowd, with hundreds of people," Munro said. He added, "She opened up doors and helped in so many ways."

Jon Stewart said Xinh's two passions were family and food.

"She was so special and I enjoyed every minute I spent with her," he said.

Stewart said he believes people will remember Xinh 100 years from now. "She remains in the hearts and minds she touched," he said.

Victoria Meadows met Xinh in the mid-1980s at the annual OysterFest. She said she looked up the meaning of her name, and translations included "you are beautiful" and "pretty and nice." She also recalled Xinh once grabbing her breasts and proclaiming, "I wish I had these!"

Bill Taylor recalled his family hiring Xinh in the late 1980s to work at Taylor Shellfish, where she was "a legend" for 30 years. Xinh connected with her co-workers, politicians and customers at her restaurant, which Taylor Shellfish financed.

"Xinh could cook anything," Taylor said, adding that her restaurant became "the go-to place in the South Sound."

Rachel Hansen got to know Xinh while working with her on her cookbooks. Xinh also taught her how to cook, she said.

"She taught us that food brings as together in precious ways ... We hope you continue to make her meals and remember her."